21st century cider owes a lot to modern knowhow in managing fermentation and balancing flavour. Andy Extance immerses himself in the science of scrumpy
With a rumble like a long roll of thunder, a lorry tips 28 tonnes of apples into a concrete pit in just a few seconds. The air they displace engulfs onlookers, enveloping them in an intensely sweet, fruity aroma that Thatchers, the UK cider maker based in Somerset, hopes will eventually reach its customers.
While turning apple sugars to alcohol is the best known part of cider production, controlling the aromas and flavours that come with it is just as, if not more, important. Richard Johnson, Thatchers’ quality manager, thinks he and his colleagues do that well. ‘We make 50–60 million litres of cider each year currently, growing every year,’ he says. ‘People seem to like what we do, so they keep buying more.’
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