[DLoja]

I wanted to double check what I feel I've read after doing some searching. I am new to dry fertilizers and want to make sure I don't mix anything that shouldn't be mixed, as well as check about premixing them with tank water, tap water, RO/DI water for a drip system or pump. Here are the ferts:

Macro's (NPK) and GH Boost
Potassium Nitrate - KNO3
Monopotassium Phosphate - KH2PO4
Potassium Sulfate - K2SO4
Calcium Sulfate / Gypsum - CaSO4
Magnesium Sulfate / Epsom Salt - MgSO4

Iron and Trace mix
Ferrous Gluconate / Iron(II) Gluconate - C12H24FeO14
Plantex CSM+B (1.50% Magnesium, 0.10% chelated Copper, 7.0% chelated Iron, 2.0% chelated Manganese, 0.06% Molybdenum, 0.40% chelated Zinc, 0.04% Boron)

Once I'm happy with the ratios, can the macros and GH boost all be mixed together dry if desired?

What about in solution?

It would obviously be easiest to use water from the aquarium to make these mixes if I decide to mix them wet, but then I don't know what all is in the water and if any other reactions might occur?  I can also use tap water with a conditioner for chlorine and chloramine, or go to the store and get some RO/DI water if necessary?

If I wanted to set up a drip system or pump can I make a months worth and have all macros and GH boost together, and a separate one for trace / iron (if dosed together it will cause cloudiness)?  Will they all last that long without precipitating out of solution or causing any adverse reactions?

Thanks for all the help,
David

[Arkcon]

Briefly, the biggest problem is soluble salts of your minors, forming insoluble compounds with the anions of your majors, and you lose them.  For this reason, often the minors of any hydroponic system are mixed and added separately.  Also, you're using chleates instead of soluble salts, those are more resistant to precipitating, so long as pH extremes are avoided.  So your plan is pretty much fine.

[DLoja]

Thanks!  I know many people do this (though I'm unsure if they add any of the sulfates to the NPK mix), but I wanted to check with a few people that these specific chemical versions seemed like they would play nice together, especially with adding the sulfates.

I'm also getting the impression that the Ca and K sulfates might need a lot more water to dissolve in...?  Maybe this is a main reason for keeping the GH boosting sulfates separate from the Macros.

I'll probably just try out a small batch to see how hard it is to dissolve them all together, and therefore how much solution is needed for a single dose, knowing that I'll likely end up dosing the NPK and sulfates separately to keep the volume down.  The sulfates can be added less frequently to a large batch of fresh water going in during a water change, whereas the macros and trace will be added many times a week.

[billnotgatez]

Just making  sure I understand
This system you have does not have animals?

Also when you return water from your filter do you do so where you could have access to the cleaned water before it enters the aquarium?

[DLoja]

Just making  sure I understand
This system you have does not have animals?

Also when you return water from your filter do you do so where you could have access to the cleaned water before it enters the aquarium?

Yes there are live fish. Fish are priority 1, plants are second.

When you say "cleaned water" I'm not sure what you're envisioning, but it's nearly the same water, just slightly less particles in it at after going through a simple fine mesh. That said, I do have access depending on what's required

[billnotgatez]

When you say "cleaned water" I'm not sure what you're envisioning, but it's nearly the same water, just slightly less particles in it at after going through a simple fine mesh. That said, I do have access depending on what's required

How is the fish excrement removed?

[DLoja]

It is removed through filtration as well as broken down into Ammonia>Nitrite>Nitrate, Phosphate, etc. All the while the plants are using that up as essential macro nutrients, and typically they need extra which is why those are typically also dosed as fertilizer.  Then a percentage of what is left is removed by a water change of a certain percent at a given interval. For me, that's 25% weekly.

[billnotgatez]

Knowing that many aquarium people prefer water from the system so as not to shock the system with change (ie temp change) - I thought you might consider using aquarium water after filtration.

Your thoughts?

[DLoja]

Honestly, the main reason to use aquarium water is because it's easy.  And personally, my setup is a bit more advanced than most.  My plumbing is all drilled through the back and I have a Y valve after one of my filters for easy water changes down to about 80% if needed.  To just grab some aquarium water into a bottle is super easy and can be done without turning off any filtration or anything, just turning a ball valve.  You're right that it would be slightly better to grab it after filtration just to reduce floating particles a bit more.

Personally, my other option is the filtered water from my fridge.  We already have some of the best water in the country here, and the extra fridge filter brings it down from under 95 tds to under 35, but more importantly the chemical analysis is great for both drinking and fish tanks.  The only thing with that is it will need a little water conditioner (for the chlorine), and then to sit for 48 hours before adding the ferts in (so as not to bind any other heavy metals added).  Not a big deal if the ferts last for a month+ though.

When dealing with a few ml's out of (in my case) 100 gallons, temperature, pH, KH, etc. doesn't really play a role and will not shock the system.  It just comes down to what's the easiest way that will still keep everything in solution without screwing with it. 

Thanks for the input,
David